I'm gearing up to attempt some cigar box* lutherie for the first time in a long long time.
I remember the article in an early issue of MAKE magazine that arguably kicked off an entire internet cigar box guitar revolution. At the time I thought it the article was cool, but I was too obsessed with Real Lutherie™ at the time to embrace the low-fi/makeshift aesthetic. I did manage to make one cigar box instrument that was way overbuilt but not very successful... it was about 85% built when my life was turned upside down by a move and major house renovation. When I finally finished it a few years later, it was promptly stolen out of my truck literally the next day and I took at as a bit of a cosmic "maybe you're just not meant to make instruments" kick to the balls. For that and other reasons I mostly set that itch aside until recently.
It's *wild* how much information there is about lutherie in general now; hundreds of hours of youtube content, etc.
It's also wild to see how Cigar Box Guitar Making™ has become a sort of invented tradition with accepted best practices and standardized scale lengths, tunings, et cetera. That whole "taking part in a time-honored rugged traditional tinged with faux hobo nostalgia, except 99% of what's been written about cigar box guitars has been written by obsessive hobbyist woodworkers on the internet in the last 10 years" thing.
I'm not sure how much of that can be attributed to the C.B. Gitty company, who has built a bit of a cigar box guitar tool and supply empire, but that's got to be part of it.
Anyway, hooray for the goddamned internet; when I was daydreaming about lutherie 15 years ago StewMac was pretty much the only game in town, and they're good but they were certainly priced like the only game in town. It is amazing how much more accessible things like cheap tuning machines have gotten, and how much less trial and error a person might have to do thanks to the hundreds of other people that have trod pathways ahead of them.
* technically, unfinished craft boxes from Michaels until such time as I can get my hands on some actual cigar boxes, which are scarcer in junk shops than they used to be. But that's fine because it also provides an opportunity to play with finishes.
Ran out of daylight to get a decent photo, but at least I managed to get primer and a couple of coats of paint onto it.
I remembered that I had most of a can of "oil rubbed bronze" type metallic paint from my theremin speaker stand which should look pretty cool, I think one more coat should do it. Going to try using plain old minwax polycrylic as a gloss clear coat. I have the notion it will be less fussy than the nitrocellulose lacquer I've been fighting with on the #telecasterkit project.
Definitely going to try using grain filler on the next one.
I managed to get five or six coats of spray polyurethane on this thing today; looks like brush marks but I think those are actually sanding marks that have been highlighted by multiple layers.
Dubious I’ll be able to sand this enough to get a smooth look (without sanding all the way through to the color layer) - definitely grain filler next time. #cbg
It's technically past the 24-hour "dry time" window and the finish has lost the ever-so-slightly-rubbery feel it had last evening, but it's still pretty smelly so I'm not going to bring it in and tinker with electronics just yet. (not that it would do me any good without neck/bridge/strings anyway.)
But, I did remember to get a photo of the highly sophisticated bracing I added #cbg
Probably going to splurge on that CB Gitty scarf joint miter box because I don’t have a table saw, and it’s relatively cheap (and the one I tried to make myself is not square, lol.) But with a little filler and sanding this should be close enough.
This test fret was about 100x easier to install than any of the ones I did 15 years ago, and that’s definitely thanks to having the right tools (my wife got me the CB gitty fretting kit for my birthday. #cbg
My obsessive nerd inclination is to do some CAD to determine the optimal neck angle per bridge placement and location. I used my ancient, offline copy of adobe Illustrator for basic geometry stuff like this for years and years, but it finally stopped working a couple of OS versions ago and I am not going to let adobe bleed me to death for the rest of my life... but I haven't really learned inkscape or (god forbid) an actual CAD package in the meantime, so that would be a whole yak-shaving expedition that's probably a bit of a moot point anyway because it's not like I have any kind of precision finer than "half a degree-ish" on my saw. 🤷♂️
My napkin calculations suggest about 6 degrees, which seems like a lot, but the body *and* neck are smaller than most instruments I'm used to, and math is math.
Worst case I can shim the heel one way or the other. #cbg
Things I need to do this morning:
* Close that other browser tab with search results for "shaving horse plans"
Me, all day long, but instead of Krusty's Clown College it's working some more on that neck.
I have work deadline BS I need to make more progress on tonight but I'm gonna take some time right now, dammit
Not sure if spokeshave difficulties are due to dull blade and inexperience, or spokeshave being a cheap piece of junk. Probably a little of both. (I bought it from Grizzly Industrial and wouldn't have spent more then twenty bucks in 2006 dollars on it)
My sharpening stones are a mess, seeing if I can clean/recondition them is a whole other yak shaving expedition I could go on.
Meanwhile, a cheap rasp worked pretty well to rough out the neck. I got it halfway cleaned up starting with 80 grit sandpaper before the mosquitoes chased me inside... there are still some pretty deep gouges but hopefully sanding will go quickly when I'm not being eaten alive.
Realized a major #footgun: Because my box lid is like 5/8" tall and the neck is only about 1 1/2" deep, my plan to attach the neck with two lag bolts is not going to work.
But, hopefully I can salvage it by putting a notch in the approprate place in the box lid. (I don't think I described the issue very well, but it will be apparent when I photograph that step. #cbg
I had the stain out for the #lm386amp project, so why the hell not. 🤷♂️ It will be a little less contrasty against the dark body.
Not sure I’ve ever stained poplar before… not the prettiest wood, at least with this stain. Predictably there are some dodgy spots around the heel where there’s either glue resisting or end-grain/filler soaking up the stain and going dark. Not sure what that resistant spot on the flat part of the heel is from, though. #cbg
I do note that the pores are not completely filled here, I only did two coats and I'm not sure my balance of filler:water:pigment (acrylic paint in this case) was thick (or thin) enough; needs practice and experimentation.
I wasn't really after a glass-smooth finish here anyway, and the surface *is* definitely smoother than it was before.
Attempted to breadboard a bare-bones #lm386amp circuit tonight, but no joy. Not sure if I screwed something up / shorted something out or if my breadboard is just a POS (which it is, I never have any confidence anything is actually making contact.) will try again with fresh eyes in daylight.
Also, I somehow have no LEDs at all? I *know* I bought an assortment once upon a time but that was two moves ago and who knows where they are now
Also got some nice component bits and bobs for the #lm386amp in today’s mail.
The switch is absolute overkill (it was hard to get a sense of scale in the product photo) but it is way more satisfyingly tactile than any rocker switch will ever be. You *know* when you’ve turned this switch on.
The pilot lamp jewel works quite nicely with a warm white led, and who could resist these jolly red knobs
I continually forget that most tuning machines are NOT like planetary banjo tuning pegs in that the knob is typically offset from the actual shaft.
I'm probably doing to have to mount two of them "backwards" for aesthetic reasons. 😒
not sure what’s lack of experience installing frets vs compromising the sharpness of the fret slots by applying finish after cutting them (the grain filler is water based.)
Things seem to be better after doing another pass with the saw to clear debris out of each slot.
With an unradiused fingerboard it seems to me that, once I get all the frets hammered in and filed, I ought to be able to put the entire thing in the jaws of my workmate table to give it a good even press for good measure.
I am going to order a pair of flush-ground nippers right now because I already tell how tedious it’s going to be to file those ends down. #cbg
That went about like I expected, but filing through the stain was actually a very good “ok that’s enough” indicator; making a note to self to use charcoal or chalk on future projects. I’ve gained an appreciation for how forgiving this stain (basic oil-based Minwax “Honey”) is for touch-ups.
@mayor looking good!
@mayor plus, it's a CBG - technical perfection is not the point!
@scruss oh for sure! This is actually the “cabinet” (pretty sure the 1:4” wood is in inadvisably thin, but OTOH it’s only a 4” speaker so 🤷♂️) for a 1W practice amp I’m also building.
@mayor ooh, you've just reminded me that with the new job comes unlimited access to a laser cutter, so enclosures r me!
@mayor plus I got a load of decertified aircraft-grade ply (so still many times better than almost every other grade of ply: just don't build a plane out of it) when the makerspace closed so I won't run out of material.
Looks very nice!!!
@mayor oops! I've seen worse.
Probably a bit too high-end for a CBG, but I had these one one of my banjos:
They're really good!
I also see that my friend Bill Rickard has got his extremely nice banjo tuners in full production ... just as well, given the amount of kit he had to buy to make them
@mayor also, this has too many string for you, but it has something:
@scruss I've seen those before! They look very clever. I still love James Ashborn's cammed tuning peg solution to the 'peg with finer adjustment' problem.
@mayor I had similar issues with my one attempt at a old spokeshave I picked up from a thrift store and sharpened. I now just use a course rasp for most of it, then smoother rasps to sand paper as I get to the end.
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